Imagine ... you are in a shop in London, let’s say in Camden or Shoreditch – full of quirky boutiques. You spot a beautiful leather handbag on a rustic wooden shelf. The colour’s rich, the stitching looks tidy, and the label says “Genuine Leather”. But then, the price seems… a bit too good to be true. So you think to yourself, Is this actually real leather? Or am I about to be mugged off with something synthetic?
If you’ve ever stood there wondering how to spot genuine leather without having to trust a dodgy label or a sales pitch, this guide’s for you.
Whether you’re after leather shoes, wallets, belts, briefcases, handbags or even a fancy leather-bound diary – this article will walk you through how to tell if it’s the real deal. I’ll also clear up the confusion around terms like “genuine leather”, “real leather”, “faux leather”, and what it actually means when something smells or feels like leather.
Let’s get into it.
Real vs Genuine vs Faux – What’s the Difference?
Let’s start with something that trips up so many people.
Real leather – This is a broad term for leather that actually comes from animal hide. It includes top-grain, full-grain, suede, nubuck, etc. When we say “real”, we’re talking about the material being authentic – from an animal, tanned and treated.
Genuine leather – Oddly enough, this can be one of the lowest grades of real leather. It usually means the product is made from split leather (the lower layer of the hide), with an artificial grain pressed on top to make it look like higher-quality leather. It’s real, but not premium. Often found in budget wallets and belts.
Faux leather – Also called PU (polyurethane) leather or synthetic leather. This one’s completely man-made. Some faux leather looks convincing but it doesn’t age well and doesn’t breathe like real leather.
So: Just because something says “genuine leather” doesn’t mean it’s the best quality – it just means it’s not plastic.
Why Investing in Real Leather Is Worth It
Before we get into spotting techniques, let’s talk about why real leather is such a big deal.
A high-quality leather item will last years, even decades if cared for properly. It ages gracefully – developing a beautiful patina. It moulds to your lifestyle: your feet, your hands, your pocket. Real leather is breathable, durable, and can be repaired or reconditioned.
Yes, it’s pricier upfront – but a real leather wallet might last 10–15 years. A faux leather one? Maybe a year or two before it starts cracking.
How to Spot Real Leather: The Ultimate Test Guide
Right. Let’s say you’ve got a leather product in hand – a wallet, handbag, pair of shoes, you name it. Here’s how to tell if it’s the real deal.
1. The Touch Test
Run your fingers over the surface.
Real leather feels warm, flexible and has slight variations in texture. It might feel smooth or slightly grainy, but it shouldn’t feel plastic-y.
You might notice tiny pores or imperfections – that’s good! No two cow hides are the same.
Faux leather is often unnaturally smooth or rubbery. It may feel cold and has a more “plasticky” feel.
Take leather shoes, for example. A good pair of leather brogues will feel supple and soft but firm – whereas synthetic shoes feel more like hard rubber and don’t bend as naturally.
2. The Smell Test
This one’s huge. Real leather has a distinct, rich, earthy smell. You can’t fake it.
If you smell that deep, slightly musky scent – chances are, it’s real.
Fake leather either smells like nothing or like chemicals or plastic.
Open up a leather wallet or unzip a leather briefcase and have a sniff. If it smells of glue and PVC, walk away.
3. The Grain Test
Look closely at the surface of the leather.
Real leather has natural grain – inconsistent, irregular, and unique.
You may see wrinkles, scars, or variations in colour and texture – that’s a good thing.
Faux leather has an even, repeating pattern that’s too perfect – it’s often stamped to mimic real grain.
On a leather diary or a handbag, look closely: does the grain look random and organic? That’s real. Does it look like a repeating print? Probably fake.
4. The Bend Test
Gently bend the material. Real leather will wrinkle slightly and the surface will change as it bends.
The creases form like human skin, subtle and soft.
Fake leather just sort of… folds. Sometimes it bends and holds the shape awkwardly.
Try this on belts or straps of handbags. Real leather curves naturally; fake leather feels stiff.
5. The Pore Test
This one’s simple: check for pores. Real leather shows small, uneven pores. If you can’t see any – or they look printed on – it’s not real.
Wallets and belts are perfect for this test, since they have big enough flat surfaces for you to inspect.
6. The Price Tag
Be wary of bargains. If a “real leather” handbag is £25, chances are it's faux or split leather at best.
A good leather wallet: expect £50+
Leather belts: £40–£70
Real leather shoes: £100+
Full-grain leather briefcases? £200 or more.
Yes, some brands charge more for the name, but genuine leather isn’t cheap to produce. If it seems too good to be true, it usually is.
7. The Edge Test
Look at the edges of the material.
Real leather often has a rougher, fibrous edge.
Fake leather usually has a smooth, plastic-coated edge.
On belts or bag straps, you can usually see this clearly.
8. Water Absorption Test (only if you own the item)
Drop a tiny bit of water on the surface. Real leather absorbs water slowly and darkens slightly.
Faux leather? It’ll bead on the surface or slide right off.
Only do this at home on your own stuff – don’t go spilling water in a shop!
Vegan Leather
Vegan leather is a newer kind of material crafted entirely from plant-based sources. To produce it, manufacturers take a fibrous plant, break it down into a pulp, and pour that mixture into a rectangular mould. It’s then baked into a solid sheet, forming the base of raw vegan leather. After that, it undergoes a tanning and finishing process similar to what’s used on real leather. (Check out this helpful video to see how it works.)
While vegan leather is a fascinating and innovative option, it isn’t a flawless substitute for traditional leather. It’s important to weigh both its advantages and limitations.
Case-by-Case: Real-Life Examples
Let’s get practical:
Shoes: Real leather shoes will smell natural, feel flexible, and bend with the foot. Look at the inside too – real leather insoles are often unlined or unfinished.
Briefcases: A real leather briefcase will weigh more, have strong natural grain, and often use brass hardware. Zips and buckles should feel substantial.
Wallets: Open it up – smell it. Look inside at the inner lining too. Cheap wallets often use faux leather on the inside.
Belts: Bend the belt in a U-shape. Fake leather often cracks or shows stress lines. Real leather bends smoothly.
Diaries: The cover of a leather-bound diary should feel textured, not plasticky. Look at the grain, the spine, and the stitching.
Handbags: Real leather bags develop a patina with age. They might darken slightly or gain character over time. Stitching should be tight and clean, and the smell unmistakable.
Cultural Note: Don't Gift Leather to Hindus
This might surprise some, but it’s important to be mindful: many Hindus do not use leather products, especially those made from cowhide. In Hinduism, the cow is considered sacred. Gifting a leather wallet or belt to a Hindu friend – even with the best intentions – might offend or upset them.
Instead, consider alternatives like canvas, cork leather, or high-quality vegan leather made from pineapple fibre (Piñatex) or mushrooms.
Always best to check if you’re not sure. A thoughtful gift is one that respects personal beliefs too.
Final Thoughts: Leather for Life
Real leather is a beautiful, timeless material – but it comes at a price, not just financially, but ethically and environmentally too. That’s why buying less but better is a smart move. If you’re going to invest in a leather item, make it one that’ll serve you for years to come.
By learning how to spot real leather, you’ll avoid cheap imitations and make more sustainable, satisfying purchases. Trust your senses – touch, smell, sight – and don’t be afraid to ask questions in-store.
Now you’re clued up, next time you’re in that shop, you’ll know exactly what you’re looking at.
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You never know how much of a difference it could make in someone’s life.
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